I just got back from the movie theater and need to tell you about the experience. We wanted to go to Slumdog Millionaire but of course it wasn’t there so we had to settle for New in Town. Now, for those of you who do not know what this movie is about I will tell you. A big time manager person in some company in Miami ends up having to go to New Ulm, Minnesota to reconfigure the plant or something like that. Well, the plot was horrible and predictable but it was hilarious. From the opening scene (an open field with a foot of blowing snow) it felt like I was back at home. Add some horrible Minnesotan accents and some Minnesota Vikings gear and you have a recipe for some obnoxious movie goers. First of all, I have no idea why this movie is in South Africa. No one here would be able to understand any of the cultural references that are in it. Second of all, besides the cultural references, the movie sucks.
There were six of us that went, we probably made up half of the people in the theater, and were probably the only ones laughing the entire time (had I seen this movie in MN I probably would not have liked it). The other people in the theater, especially the couple sitting directly in front of us, were getting really annoyed…but we really didn’t care. I consider this payback for Chili Boy in Durban (I only understood about 10% of what was going on in that play while all the locals found it hilarious). After the movie was done it felt like someone should go outside to warm up the car while the rest of us bundle up from the cold. Alas, I stepped outside into 70 degree weather and not a trace of snow. It made me sad (really it did).
This may have been a waste of time for you but I felt I should share my experience of watching a Minnesota based movie in South Africa and the hilarity (though you may not see it…it’s a ‘you have to be here’ sort of thing) that comes with it.
One thing I forgot to mention. This whole movie night cost less than $5 (includes a ticket popcorn and pop) and apparently the movies are cheaper on Wednesday nights.
Peace.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Monday, March 16, 2009
Hogsback
First off I have to say Happy Birthday to my dad. I hope he had a great day full of cake.
This last week a couple of my classes really made me think, finally. For the senior seminar class we went to a presentation in the township near the Haven where we volunteer. The presentation was given by Bradley, our tour guide from Scotia and Addo, and was about the anti-apartheid struggle in the 1980’s from the perspective of someone who was living it. The 1980’s saw a revival in unrest mainly due to the Soweto Uprising of 1976, where students protested the Bantu Education system. Riots became common place, international communities finally began to put sanctions in place against South Africa, college students (especially those in the US) were protesting. Immense pressure was being put on the South African government and they were fighting back. The townships were horrible places to live at this time. Thousands died, many more traumatized by what they saw. Bradley talked about being “colored” and living through this. He talked about making petrol bombs, being harassed by police outside of his school, and just things he saw everyday that a child shouldn’t have to go through. Hearing about this made me realize how perfect my childhood was. Kids growing up in South Africa during this time never had a normal childhood and probably won’t ever live a normal life because of the scars it left. If you think about it, many of the people running this country grew up during this time and you have to wonder what effects that has on the decisions they make. Because of where and how I was raised, I will never, no matter how hard I try, be able to understand what these people have gone through. I can just listen to what they have to say.
In my literature class the professor brought up a point that I have been noticing throughout my time here in South Africa. Apartheid may still be over but the master – slave relationship still persists. The jobs that require little skill (car guards, house cleaners, golf spotter, people who water the flowers or sell newspapers) are all done by black people. We discussed how this is because of the Bantu Education system where blacks were only taught the skills they would need to get jobs in apartheid. Education was not a necessity for blacks. The effects of this system are still being felt 15 years after apartheid and will probably affect the country for some time to come.
On Thursday we had our first lab for Marine Biology. We went to a sandy beach on Sardinia Bay and had a great time doing grunt work for some grad students. The water was absolutely freezing and I was cold for a while. On that beach I felt the strangest breezes ever. For a while the breeze was coming off the ocean and it was cold. Suddenly it would switch and becoming from the land where it would be hot, when I say a hot breeze I mean hot.
We have had a little war going on with the boys’ room next door. I’m surprised the prank wars have taken this long to get started. Someone let slip that we put some hot sauce on their toothbrushes (they apparently didn’t notice) so they came in at night and took our couch and gave us nasty green chairs. While they were out one night, we took our couch back, kept the chairs, and took their mattresses. The guys came back into our room and pretty much took all of our furniture. There is a truce now so everything is back where it was but I’m not sure how long this quiet will last.
On Friday our whole group went to Grahamstown and King Williams Town for a little lesson on the land issues that are huge in South Africa now. This is how I understand it to happen. When the Europeans came down here they began to partition the land. They gave some of the land to some of the African tribes and those who helped them. The blacks owned this land and worked it until apartheid where it was said black couldn’t own land. The government took it away and in many cases began putting residential developments on it. Now that apartheid is over the question still remains on who owns the land. Legally, the deeds to this land still are in the hands of the blacks but what do you do with those living on the land right now. Much of this land in question is farms and the white farmers are not happy with the situation. We are going to be visiting white Afrikaner farmers in the near future so I’m sure I’ll get more information then.
We also got to see Steve Biko’s house. Steve Biko is the founder of the Black Consciousness Movement. The BC was an organization that worked on empowering the black population. Apartheid had left the black population feeling as if they were inferior. BC was created to correct that. Biko is famous not only for founding this movement but also because his death was so cruel. He was, like many other political activists, was arrested and beaten while in detention. He was either being transported to or from Port Elizabeth naked in the back of a police van with nothing to eat or drink. He died before making it to his destination.
A group of us then were dropped off in Grahamstown where we proceeded to head to Hogsback. Friday night we stayed in a hostel that used to be a jail and the rooms are the old jail cells. I have to say it was a little bit scary. We headed out Saturday and drove 2 hours to Hogsback. This was the first weekend trip that did not include a beach, but it did include amazing views and great hikes. The road to Hogsback weaved in and out of the mountains. It was a foggy/misty day so it set the perfect mood for our stay at Away with the Fairies. The village of Hogsback is located up in the forest of the mountains. It is a tiny town of no more than an Inn and a few general stores and a couple cafes. This place is known for great hiking and beautiful waterfalls. We didn’t waste any time and headed out hiking right away. The best waterfall was Bridal Veil Falls, it was also the hardest to reach because the trail wasn’t marked clearly and we had to climb up a rock slide for a half hour at least. But all the trouble it took to get there was well worth it. We could get up close to these falls and got amazing pictures of it (which we hope to see on the front page of the CSB/SJU website). We got up early on Sunday to go on another hike. We probably hiked close to 7 hours in those two days on very rough terrain.
The reason so many people want to go to Hogsback is because it is the inspiration of JRR Tolkien’s The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings. It is not hard to see why. Having read the books and seen the movies it felt as if I was transported to Middle Earth. I won’t go into details but if you’ve seen the movies, these forests look exactly like that. It was amazing.
Getting back to PE was an experience. We were all exhausted and sore and didn’t feel like moving. It took us one crammed combi ride and one very hot taxi to get us to Grahamstown. From there we had to ride on a bus to PE. That was the hottest bus ride I have ever had to take. It was crowded and barely any windows were open and we all smelled so I’m sure the people we sat next to were just loving that. I don’t know if I will do that again but like I said it was an experience.
Tonight I went to my first rugby game. I watched some on TV while we were at the hostel to get in the mood for it. Rugby is my type of game. It’s fast with lots of hitting, grunting, and the occasional blood. Tonight, there was even fight that broke out, it didn’t last long but it was sweet all the same. So rugby here (at NMMU and other major universities in SA) is like Division I college football back in the states. I remember someone describing the players more as students for hire than actually students. They are athletes that come to a school to play the sport. I am really going to miss the sports here when I go back to the States.
Peace.
This last week a couple of my classes really made me think, finally. For the senior seminar class we went to a presentation in the township near the Haven where we volunteer. The presentation was given by Bradley, our tour guide from Scotia and Addo, and was about the anti-apartheid struggle in the 1980’s from the perspective of someone who was living it. The 1980’s saw a revival in unrest mainly due to the Soweto Uprising of 1976, where students protested the Bantu Education system. Riots became common place, international communities finally began to put sanctions in place against South Africa, college students (especially those in the US) were protesting. Immense pressure was being put on the South African government and they were fighting back. The townships were horrible places to live at this time. Thousands died, many more traumatized by what they saw. Bradley talked about being “colored” and living through this. He talked about making petrol bombs, being harassed by police outside of his school, and just things he saw everyday that a child shouldn’t have to go through. Hearing about this made me realize how perfect my childhood was. Kids growing up in South Africa during this time never had a normal childhood and probably won’t ever live a normal life because of the scars it left. If you think about it, many of the people running this country grew up during this time and you have to wonder what effects that has on the decisions they make. Because of where and how I was raised, I will never, no matter how hard I try, be able to understand what these people have gone through. I can just listen to what they have to say.
In my literature class the professor brought up a point that I have been noticing throughout my time here in South Africa. Apartheid may still be over but the master – slave relationship still persists. The jobs that require little skill (car guards, house cleaners, golf spotter, people who water the flowers or sell newspapers) are all done by black people. We discussed how this is because of the Bantu Education system where blacks were only taught the skills they would need to get jobs in apartheid. Education was not a necessity for blacks. The effects of this system are still being felt 15 years after apartheid and will probably affect the country for some time to come.
On Thursday we had our first lab for Marine Biology. We went to a sandy beach on Sardinia Bay and had a great time doing grunt work for some grad students. The water was absolutely freezing and I was cold for a while. On that beach I felt the strangest breezes ever. For a while the breeze was coming off the ocean and it was cold. Suddenly it would switch and becoming from the land where it would be hot, when I say a hot breeze I mean hot.
We have had a little war going on with the boys’ room next door. I’m surprised the prank wars have taken this long to get started. Someone let slip that we put some hot sauce on their toothbrushes (they apparently didn’t notice) so they came in at night and took our couch and gave us nasty green chairs. While they were out one night, we took our couch back, kept the chairs, and took their mattresses. The guys came back into our room and pretty much took all of our furniture. There is a truce now so everything is back where it was but I’m not sure how long this quiet will last.
On Friday our whole group went to Grahamstown and King Williams Town for a little lesson on the land issues that are huge in South Africa now. This is how I understand it to happen. When the Europeans came down here they began to partition the land. They gave some of the land to some of the African tribes and those who helped them. The blacks owned this land and worked it until apartheid where it was said black couldn’t own land. The government took it away and in many cases began putting residential developments on it. Now that apartheid is over the question still remains on who owns the land. Legally, the deeds to this land still are in the hands of the blacks but what do you do with those living on the land right now. Much of this land in question is farms and the white farmers are not happy with the situation. We are going to be visiting white Afrikaner farmers in the near future so I’m sure I’ll get more information then.
We also got to see Steve Biko’s house. Steve Biko is the founder of the Black Consciousness Movement. The BC was an organization that worked on empowering the black population. Apartheid had left the black population feeling as if they were inferior. BC was created to correct that. Biko is famous not only for founding this movement but also because his death was so cruel. He was, like many other political activists, was arrested and beaten while in detention. He was either being transported to or from Port Elizabeth naked in the back of a police van with nothing to eat or drink. He died before making it to his destination.
A group of us then were dropped off in Grahamstown where we proceeded to head to Hogsback. Friday night we stayed in a hostel that used to be a jail and the rooms are the old jail cells. I have to say it was a little bit scary. We headed out Saturday and drove 2 hours to Hogsback. This was the first weekend trip that did not include a beach, but it did include amazing views and great hikes. The road to Hogsback weaved in and out of the mountains. It was a foggy/misty day so it set the perfect mood for our stay at Away with the Fairies. The village of Hogsback is located up in the forest of the mountains. It is a tiny town of no more than an Inn and a few general stores and a couple cafes. This place is known for great hiking and beautiful waterfalls. We didn’t waste any time and headed out hiking right away. The best waterfall was Bridal Veil Falls, it was also the hardest to reach because the trail wasn’t marked clearly and we had to climb up a rock slide for a half hour at least. But all the trouble it took to get there was well worth it. We could get up close to these falls and got amazing pictures of it (which we hope to see on the front page of the CSB/SJU website). We got up early on Sunday to go on another hike. We probably hiked close to 7 hours in those two days on very rough terrain.
The reason so many people want to go to Hogsback is because it is the inspiration of JRR Tolkien’s The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings. It is not hard to see why. Having read the books and seen the movies it felt as if I was transported to Middle Earth. I won’t go into details but if you’ve seen the movies, these forests look exactly like that. It was amazing.
Getting back to PE was an experience. We were all exhausted and sore and didn’t feel like moving. It took us one crammed combi ride and one very hot taxi to get us to Grahamstown. From there we had to ride on a bus to PE. That was the hottest bus ride I have ever had to take. It was crowded and barely any windows were open and we all smelled so I’m sure the people we sat next to were just loving that. I don’t know if I will do that again but like I said it was an experience.
Tonight I went to my first rugby game. I watched some on TV while we were at the hostel to get in the mood for it. Rugby is my type of game. It’s fast with lots of hitting, grunting, and the occasional blood. Tonight, there was even fight that broke out, it didn’t last long but it was sweet all the same. So rugby here (at NMMU and other major universities in SA) is like Division I college football back in the states. I remember someone describing the players more as students for hire than actually students. They are athletes that come to a school to play the sport. I am really going to miss the sports here when I go back to the States.
Peace.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Durban
Sorry it has taken so long to update this blog. I have been distracted by massive amounts of reading and a group trip to Durban over the weekend. Nothing out of the ordinary happened during the week, just school, volunteering, and homework.
We had a weekend excursion to Durban with the entire group. We left on Thursday for a five-day trip. I was still plugged up from the two week cold that wouldn’t go away so the plane ride was horrible to say the least. (Funny story about me being sick. I had been coughing so much that I strained a muscle somewhere in my ribs on my left side so every time I cough it kills). The pressure just completely messed with my ears and sinuses. Thank God the ride was only an hour long, I don’t think I could have lasted much longer. The airline we took, Kulula, was great though. They slipped jokes into everything: Remember, when you exit the plane smoking and vulgar language are permitted in designated areas only. There are many ways to leave your lover but only seven ways to leave this aircraft. If we have to make a water landing remember the life vests are underneath your seats, but don’t worry we aren’t going to be near the Hudson River.
I could immediately tell when we reached Durban. The weather is much hotter and humid than in PE. Without stopping at our hostel we visited the Temple of Understanding. It was a large ornate building where they worship Krishna. I really wasn’t paying attention because I was so tired and hot so I couldn’t tell you much about what we did here except that someone in our group thinks Obama is a very good looking guy (don’t ask how that came up).
The Indian population is the second largest outside of India so it only makes sense that Indian influence is everywhere. That being said, after the Temple we watched some traditional Indian dancing with a little South African flair. I loved the dancing because it incorporated so many aspects that makes South Africa unique. The dances included traditional Indian mixed with Zulu warrior dances and contemporary dance. I had never seen anything like it before. To go along with the Indian theme we ate at a traditional Indian restaurant and had curry. I am a fan of curry but this stuff was spicy. The mild was hot and the hot was death. Good thing the dessert was amazing otherwise I would have gone to bed hungry.
The next morning I had to wake up at 5:30 because a group of us were heading out to the harbor to watch the shark nets get checked. Unfortunately we didn’t see any sharks but that doesn’t mean we didn’t have fun. The harbor is the largest in South African and the 9th largest in the world. We saw enormous cargo ships, tugboats, and even a cruise ship. When we reached the open ocean the swells were already 10 feet high and getting higher. Going over them felt like a rollercoaster though several on the boat did not share in my enthusiasm. We watched the shark crews check the nets for about an hour without seeing a shark. The view we had of Durban, though, was beautiful. The sun was just coming up and hitting the buildings lifting the fog and lighting everything up. As we were heading back to the harbor we hit one last giant swell that scared the crap out of every one of us sitting in the front of the boat. By this time those of us who had not gotten sick were getting used to going up the swells and coming back down. However, this particular swell was different. We couldn’t really tell we were coming up on the swell until we were on top of it then someone said something along the lines of “holy crap” and I looked (my back was turned away from the swells) and could see nothing. You know how on the top of the first drop on a rollercoaster you can’t see anything and all of a sudden you just drop. This was the exact same feeling only we weren’t strapped in to anything so we were all in the air for a while. I was on the edge and didn’t exactly feel like I could hold on so I fall forward and end up on my knees on the ground. It was great. We were all laughing our heads off about that swell secretly hoping we would hit another. The captain was laughing more at us then the swell. After that we had to hurry up and eat breakfast at this great restaurant that, for decorations, had knives on the ceiling. We had about 5 minutes to eat our food so I don’t think anyone tasted their food.
After the excitement of the boat trip we had to go on a 3 hour walking tour. It wasn’t much fun. The only part of the tour I did like was the Mosque. I am fascinated with world religions and love to learn about them. Our guide, an ex-protestant priest who converted to Islam 7 years ago, went into a lecture about Islam and the similarities between it and Christianity and the misconceptions most people have about Muslims. I absolutely loved it.
I have fallen in love with cricket since I have been here. On Saturday, a small group of us went to the South Africa vs. Australia 5 day test match (today was day 2). When we arrived the South African team was doing very well for a while. However, when it was there time to bat, they bombed. It wasn’t very exciting after that. This series is huge to the two countries so the South African’s complete collapse is devastating.
Saturday night involved the Bolshoi Ballet. I have always wanted to watch Russian ballet and this did not let me down. It was a medley of pieces from other ballets. We were a bunch of American students watching the Russian ballet in South Africa. It really is a small world.
Sunday was not too exciting. A group of us went hiking at the New Germany Nature Reserve. We got to see the ranger feed the python in the visitor’s center. I couldn’t watch it so I went outside. Just as I got out there the ranger came out with the mouse in a clamp thing and started banging it on the side of the building trying to stun it. Seeing that had completely ruined the purpose of me being outside in the first place. Afterwards, we went to the first Mexican restaurant I have seen in South Africa. Then we went to a comedy show at a casino. I don’t think we got more than 20% of what was being said. If I knew Afrikaans I think that number would have been a little higher.
We left early Monday morning to get back to PE. Uneventful. Boring. I did get a window seat so that made me happy. Got burnt being at the beach for 3 hours doing homework (yes I did actually do homework).
All in all it was a good weekend despite the fact that the hostel owners were pricks and couldn’t understand that owning a hostel involved housing a bunch of college students that are going to be loud and obnoxious late at night. Ok I’m done ranting.
Peace.
We had a weekend excursion to Durban with the entire group. We left on Thursday for a five-day trip. I was still plugged up from the two week cold that wouldn’t go away so the plane ride was horrible to say the least. (Funny story about me being sick. I had been coughing so much that I strained a muscle somewhere in my ribs on my left side so every time I cough it kills). The pressure just completely messed with my ears and sinuses. Thank God the ride was only an hour long, I don’t think I could have lasted much longer. The airline we took, Kulula, was great though. They slipped jokes into everything: Remember, when you exit the plane smoking and vulgar language are permitted in designated areas only. There are many ways to leave your lover but only seven ways to leave this aircraft. If we have to make a water landing remember the life vests are underneath your seats, but don’t worry we aren’t going to be near the Hudson River.
I could immediately tell when we reached Durban. The weather is much hotter and humid than in PE. Without stopping at our hostel we visited the Temple of Understanding. It was a large ornate building where they worship Krishna. I really wasn’t paying attention because I was so tired and hot so I couldn’t tell you much about what we did here except that someone in our group thinks Obama is a very good looking guy (don’t ask how that came up).
The Indian population is the second largest outside of India so it only makes sense that Indian influence is everywhere. That being said, after the Temple we watched some traditional Indian dancing with a little South African flair. I loved the dancing because it incorporated so many aspects that makes South Africa unique. The dances included traditional Indian mixed with Zulu warrior dances and contemporary dance. I had never seen anything like it before. To go along with the Indian theme we ate at a traditional Indian restaurant and had curry. I am a fan of curry but this stuff was spicy. The mild was hot and the hot was death. Good thing the dessert was amazing otherwise I would have gone to bed hungry.
The next morning I had to wake up at 5:30 because a group of us were heading out to the harbor to watch the shark nets get checked. Unfortunately we didn’t see any sharks but that doesn’t mean we didn’t have fun. The harbor is the largest in South African and the 9th largest in the world. We saw enormous cargo ships, tugboats, and even a cruise ship. When we reached the open ocean the swells were already 10 feet high and getting higher. Going over them felt like a rollercoaster though several on the boat did not share in my enthusiasm. We watched the shark crews check the nets for about an hour without seeing a shark. The view we had of Durban, though, was beautiful. The sun was just coming up and hitting the buildings lifting the fog and lighting everything up. As we were heading back to the harbor we hit one last giant swell that scared the crap out of every one of us sitting in the front of the boat. By this time those of us who had not gotten sick were getting used to going up the swells and coming back down. However, this particular swell was different. We couldn’t really tell we were coming up on the swell until we were on top of it then someone said something along the lines of “holy crap” and I looked (my back was turned away from the swells) and could see nothing. You know how on the top of the first drop on a rollercoaster you can’t see anything and all of a sudden you just drop. This was the exact same feeling only we weren’t strapped in to anything so we were all in the air for a while. I was on the edge and didn’t exactly feel like I could hold on so I fall forward and end up on my knees on the ground. It was great. We were all laughing our heads off about that swell secretly hoping we would hit another. The captain was laughing more at us then the swell. After that we had to hurry up and eat breakfast at this great restaurant that, for decorations, had knives on the ceiling. We had about 5 minutes to eat our food so I don’t think anyone tasted their food.
After the excitement of the boat trip we had to go on a 3 hour walking tour. It wasn’t much fun. The only part of the tour I did like was the Mosque. I am fascinated with world religions and love to learn about them. Our guide, an ex-protestant priest who converted to Islam 7 years ago, went into a lecture about Islam and the similarities between it and Christianity and the misconceptions most people have about Muslims. I absolutely loved it.
I have fallen in love with cricket since I have been here. On Saturday, a small group of us went to the South Africa vs. Australia 5 day test match (today was day 2). When we arrived the South African team was doing very well for a while. However, when it was there time to bat, they bombed. It wasn’t very exciting after that. This series is huge to the two countries so the South African’s complete collapse is devastating.
Saturday night involved the Bolshoi Ballet. I have always wanted to watch Russian ballet and this did not let me down. It was a medley of pieces from other ballets. We were a bunch of American students watching the Russian ballet in South Africa. It really is a small world.
Sunday was not too exciting. A group of us went hiking at the New Germany Nature Reserve. We got to see the ranger feed the python in the visitor’s center. I couldn’t watch it so I went outside. Just as I got out there the ranger came out with the mouse in a clamp thing and started banging it on the side of the building trying to stun it. Seeing that had completely ruined the purpose of me being outside in the first place. Afterwards, we went to the first Mexican restaurant I have seen in South Africa. Then we went to a comedy show at a casino. I don’t think we got more than 20% of what was being said. If I knew Afrikaans I think that number would have been a little higher.
We left early Monday morning to get back to PE. Uneventful. Boring. I did get a window seat so that made me happy. Got burnt being at the beach for 3 hours doing homework (yes I did actually do homework).
All in all it was a good weekend despite the fact that the hostel owners were pricks and couldn’t understand that owning a hostel involved housing a bunch of college students that are going to be loud and obnoxious late at night. Ok I’m done ranting.
Peace.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Bulungula
I ask you to forgive me for the length of this blog and for being a couple days late. I was at one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen the entire weekend. But before we get there on to what I’ve been doing this week…nothing. There that was easy. On to this weekend.
My weekends start at noon on Thursday after my marine biology class so I am able to travel just about anywhere in South Africa, which I have taken advantage of. This last weekend I, along with five others, went to Bulungula, a remote Xhosa village east of Port Elizabeth along the coast. First, though, I must tell you about the trip there which was an adventure in itself.
We were planning on leaving at 6:30 to pick up the rental cars. Some girls however did not get up until 6:25 so needless to say we left a little late. After we got our rental cars we hit the road. The 9 hour trip there was relatively uneventful. The N2, the main road from P.E. to Durban, is at times much like the freeway system back home, sometimes like the highway system, and at yet other places is like the back country roads in Minnesota. The scenery was beautiful as we were weaving in and out of the green hills but it completely messed up my ears and sinuses – I still have a cold. Once we got off that road though the adventure really began. After driving 40km on a potholed road that required some inventive maneuvering we turned off onto a dirt road for the last 30km. Think of the worst dirt road you have driven on in Minnesota or any other road in America. Now times that by about 100 and you have the condition of these dirt roads. We were driving two small, white cars (needless to say they did not stay white for very long). Boulders sit in the middle of the road at random points, the rain has created deep ravines that could quickly end any weekend plans if the car got stuck in it, and cows stand in middle of the road moseying on along. At one point we had to go down a hill that had a lot of exposed rock and the car in front of us was on three wheels at one point. Somehow we made it to a small village where we stopped at a store and hung out with the locals and had a dance-off with (the white kids lost). But we still had to get to the final parking spot. Eventually we did make it. We still had to hike 3.5km to the lodge. It was getting dark at this point and this road was even worse than the one we drove over so the going was a little treacherous. At one point I completely miscalculated the width of a stream and got mud everywhere but we did all make it safe to the lodge in one way or another.
Bulungula Lodge is located in a remote Xhosa village (if you couldn’t tell by the description of the trip there) where the Xhosa community owns a large part of the lodge and organizes all of the activities available. It is located directly on the Indian Ocean and Xhora River. Our rooms were traditional Xhosa huts painted in crazy colors and designs with the only lighting being a candle in the middle of the room.
My weekends start at noon on Thursday after my marine biology class so I am able to travel just about anywhere in South Africa, which I have taken advantage of. This last weekend I, along with five others, went to Bulungula, a remote Xhosa village east of Port Elizabeth along the coast. First, though, I must tell you about the trip there which was an adventure in itself.
We were planning on leaving at 6:30 to pick up the rental cars. Some girls however did not get up until 6:25 so needless to say we left a little late. After we got our rental cars we hit the road. The 9 hour trip there was relatively uneventful. The N2, the main road from P.E. to Durban, is at times much like the freeway system back home, sometimes like the highway system, and at yet other places is like the back country roads in Minnesota. The scenery was beautiful as we were weaving in and out of the green hills but it completely messed up my ears and sinuses – I still have a cold. Once we got off that road though the adventure really began. After driving 40km on a potholed road that required some inventive maneuvering we turned off onto a dirt road for the last 30km. Think of the worst dirt road you have driven on in Minnesota or any other road in America. Now times that by about 100 and you have the condition of these dirt roads. We were driving two small, white cars (needless to say they did not stay white for very long). Boulders sit in the middle of the road at random points, the rain has created deep ravines that could quickly end any weekend plans if the car got stuck in it, and cows stand in middle of the road moseying on along. At one point we had to go down a hill that had a lot of exposed rock and the car in front of us was on three wheels at one point. Somehow we made it to a small village where we stopped at a store and hung out with the locals and had a dance-off with (the white kids lost). But we still had to get to the final parking spot. Eventually we did make it. We still had to hike 3.5km to the lodge. It was getting dark at this point and this road was even worse than the one we drove over so the going was a little treacherous. At one point I completely miscalculated the width of a stream and got mud everywhere but we did all make it safe to the lodge in one way or another.
Bulungula Lodge is located in a remote Xhosa village (if you couldn’t tell by the description of the trip there) where the Xhosa community owns a large part of the lodge and organizes all of the activities available. It is located directly on the Indian Ocean and Xhora River. Our rooms were traditional Xhosa huts painted in crazy colors and designs with the only lighting being a candle in the middle of the room.
This place is so beautiful. I look one way and it looks like a tropical Ireland with its rolling green hills. I look the other way and I have a perfect view of the Xhosa village reminding me I am in Africa. Words and pictures really do not do this place justice. It is something that needs to be experienced.
Saturday I thought I woke to something crawling up my leg. We left the door open so it seemed logical only I didn’t want to know what it was so I didn’t look. I decided to canoe the Xhora River with a couple of other girls I travelled with that day. Our guide didn’t speak English but we communicated well enough to have a great time. Hiking there was intense and much more difficult than the actual canoeing was. After canoeing we stopped at the community restaurant, which is just a hut that makes crepes. It was great food and much needed after our workout.
One thing I have to say about this place. Animals just roam around this village and the geese and roosters are crazy. The roosters woke me up at 6 and the geese squawk at random times and chase each other, quite entertaining actually. The views we saw on the canoe outing were just absolutely amazing and I couldn’t believe I was in such a beautiful place.
After that we went swimming and I almost got killed by a wave, again. I can see the huge waves coming only my mind goes blank when it comes to diving under the wave and I get rattled a bit. That has happened way too many times and I’m determined to never let it happen again…but it will. Can’t say I’m getting sick of the ocean, though.
I took a nice walk along the beach and within 5 minutes I was the only person on the beach (don’t worry parents this place was perfectly safe). The ocean, the each, the scenery, everything was amazing. I know I said J-Bay was a paradise, but so is this in such a different way. J-Bay is a tourist town. Bulungula is Xhosa village with little modern amenities. There you don’t have to worry about the crime that is found in any other part of SA. The only thing I had to worry about was not stepping on cow poop or tripping over a crazy goose.
Saturday night some of us decided to head out to the beach to see the stars (I had never seen so many stars in my life – the closest city was probably 50 miles away, at the closest). Eventually the clouds rolled in and we couldn’t see anything so we decided to head out onto the rocks. The tide was at its lowest point and within the rocks we could see crabs, fish, and other cool little creatures. That probably wasn’t the greatest idea. After about 5 minutes of walking over the rocks it begins to downpour. Within seconds we are soaked and we only have two headlamps among the 6 of us so getting back to lodge took a while. The rest of that night was cold and wet.
The return trip was much of the same only worse because we got stuck a few times in the wet roads so I won’t bore you with that. That was my amazing adventure. I will try to have pictures of the trip up ASAP.
Peace.
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